How to choose the right chemical peel

Chemical Peels benefit the skin by super exfoliating the dead skin and revealing the new skin underneath.  Checmical Peels do not, however,  only affect on the dead skin cells;  they also take some of the healthy skin along with it.  This is a good thing because it is through this "controlled damage" to the healthy skin that causes the injury/repair reaction desired.  This process results in stronger healthier skin after the peel.  It is essential that you receive the right type of peel for your specific needs.  There are many types of peels and all have their place.  Knowing which peel is best for you should always be determined by a professional.  I have seen many clients coming to me who have tried to do a chemical peel at home which resulted in hyper-pigmentation (dark spots) or worse, scarring.  Just because you CAN order peels over the internet does not mean you SHOULD.  It is acid you are putting on your face!

So what is important to know before receiving a peel?  Knowing a bit about the most widely used types of peels will give you a leg up when discussing your options with your skin care professional.  Knowledge is power.  Following are some short descriptions of the most common types of peels.

Salicylic Peel - Best suited for oily or blemish prone skin types.  Helps to unclog pores and is a type of beta-hydroxy acid which delivers deeper than the alpha-hydroxy type.  Considered a light peel, expect minimal down time.  WARNING:  MUST AVOID IF ALLERGIC TO ASPIRIN.

Glycolic Peel - Best suited for light scarring from earlier acne or other dark pigmentation issues.  This is a alpha-hydroxy peel that helps greatly with blackheads, evens skin color, improves fine lines and wrinkles and smooths rough textured skin.  Considered a light peel with minimal down time.

Lactic Peel - Best suited for first time peel users.  Will give a healthy glow and is fine for those with dry skin types.    Helps fade dark spots and smooths fine lines and wrinkles.  Several applications done in a series is usually needed with type of peel.  There is little to no down time.  Considered a light peel.

TCA Peel - Good for scarring from previous acne, lightens dark spots, smooths fine lines and wrinkles.  This is a medium depth peel, going deeper than the others listed above,  but can be controlled by your esthetician to meet your specific needs.  Can go very deep if necessary by layering the product.  There are several days of down time with this peel.  Expect browning of the skin, and heavy peeling for most.  

Jessner Peel - Personally not my favorite, but you will see it a lot.   I do not offer Jessner peels because......well......I don't want to.  Other peels are better options because they allow more control of the product.  Jessner Peels can go dreadfully wrong very quickly.  Jessner are best suited for oily skin types, they can be very drying and irritating if your skin is normal to dry.  This peel is an alcohol based peel, stronger than Glycolic or Salicylic.  Down time about one week.

Enzyme Peel - Enzyme peels are usually fruit acid based peels.  They exfoliate the surface of the skin and are very gentle compared to the other peels above.  Good for all skin types, no down time, and you may or may not see physical peeling of your skin.

Phenol Peel -  Short of Laser Peels this is the deepest peel available.  The risk with this peel is uneven skin tone if the peel is not applied evenly, or is left on for different amounts of time in different areas.  Darkening of the skin following this type of peel is likely if extra special care to stay 100% out of sun is not followed.  It is great for deeper wrinkles and scarring, but because of the side effects mentioned above it is not one that I favor.  Down time is significant and anesthesia is usually required due to the degree of burning.  It takes at least a month to recover from this type of peel.
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TCA Peel 13% that can be layered up to 5 layers is my favorite 
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This TCA I use contains:
TCA
Retinol
Chain Phenol
Lactic Acid
Vitamin-C
Peptides
Fruit Derived Stem Cells
Kojic Acid
 
This peel will not only resurface the skin but will also provide a lift to the skin due to the collagen stimulation which is greatly increased in this type of peel, compared to others.  The healing time is about the same as with other peels, 7 days, with the most severe peeling on days 4, 5, & 6.  The skin peels in layers, just as it was applied in layers.  This peel also lightens the skin addressing hyper-pigmentation with great results.

First time peelers  should be advised to start off with the lowest penetrating peels and graduate slowly to the deeper peels.  Skin does need to build a tolerance to peels.  If you jump directly to the deeper peels you risk injury to the skin resulting in scarring, blistering and dark pigmentation.

Overall the use of peels is a standard in my practice, they give wonderful results over time.